Ceratogyrus marshalli

Ceratogyrus marshalli, affectionately known as the Straight Horned Baboon, hails from the grassland savannas of Zimbabwe and surrounding regions in Southern Africa. Out in the wild, they carve out their homes in compacted soils, favouring scrubby, grassy habitats rather than dense forests. The local climate swings between hot, dry spells and sudden downpours (making them true masters of weathering whatever Mother Nature throws their way). Daytime temps can be rather toasty, but the nights cool right down. These tarantulas are well adapted to an African lifestyle—expect burrows for shelter, and a distinctly no-nonsense approach to daily life.

Fully grown, C. marshalli can reach around 13–15 cm diagonal leg span, making them a relatively substantial tarantula. Females typically get a bit bulkier and longer-lived, while males remain a smidge smaller and lankier. Growth is steady but not lightning-quick, and those iconic horns on their carapace are evident even in juveniles—so you’ll always know exactly who you’re dealing with. Expect slings to take a few years to reach their impressive adult stature.

Ceratogyrus marshalli is a classic burrower—fossorial to the core. They like their privacy, constructing sophisticated tunnels and chambers beneath the substrate. In captivity, you’ll rarely spot them prancing about on the surface, but you may be treated to the sight of intricate burrow entrances, a bit like a DIY grand entrance to their own subterranean palace. Slings and juveniles will quickly disappear into the depths, but adults sometimes peek out at dusk. Give them what they love: plenty of digging room and the odd opportunity to surprise you with a rare surface appearance.

Like many tarantulas, ladies outlive the gents by a wide margin. With good care, females may clock in a solid 12–15 years (enough time to become part of the family furniture), while males generally only last 3–4 years, often not long after hooking out. This makes C. marshalli a long-term commitment for anyone keen to enjoy their quirks for years to come—although don’t expect much in the way of surface socialising!

C. marshalli is neither a tortoise nor a hare in the world of spider growth—it’s best described as moderate. With frequent, appropriately-sized meals and warm temps, slings and juveniles can pick up the pace, but they won’t outgrow their trousers overnight. Molt frequency tails off as they mature. Good husbandry keeps things rolling nicely, while excessive cool or dry spells will slow progress. Be patient, and you’ll soon be rewarded with a horned beauty.

Let’s be honest: C. marshalli has a reputation as a little hot-head. Not for the faint of heart, these baboons are feisty and fiercely private. Disturbing their burrow often results in a dramatic threat posture—fangs bared, front legs raised—that could teach Shakespearean actors a thing or two about stage presence. Speed-wise, they’re quick enough to make you reconsider your life choices, but rarely bolt without provocation. Respect their space and you’ll have a fascinating, if reclusive, housemate.

If you’re comfy in a typical British living room, your C. marshalli probably is too. Aim for a sweet spot of 21–24°C, which mirrors their natural lowland habitat. Brief dips to 19°C are fine overnight, while highs up to 26°C can be tolerated, but avoid going tropical—too hot and things stress out (including you!). Supplemental heating isn’t usually necessary unless temps drop below 18°C for extended periods. A small heat mat stuck to the side or back (never the bottom!) works in a pinch, but always monitor with a thermostat—crispy baboon is not on the menu.

C. marshalli enjoys moderate humidity—think 50–65% RH. This species is no stranger to dry spells, so avoid swampy enclosures. Use deep, slightly damp substrate for slings and juveniles, allowing the upper layers to dry out between light mistings. Adults are happy with mostly dry substrate and a generously sized water dish. Good cross-ventilation stops the dreaded mould and keeps your spider’s home fresh. When moulting is near, a gentle increase in humidity (never soggy!) is appreciated.

Not going to sugar-coat it—C. marshalli isn’t winning any Miss Congeniality awards for visibility. You’ll mostly see dirt, some creative burrowing, and an occasional pair of legs peeking out from the entrance. Night-time and feeding bring increased activity, and if you’re lucky, the odd full appearance during enclosure maintenance or a surface hunt. Their epic burrow entrances and the sheer drama of spotting them in the open provide high display value—especially when new webbing or redecorating is underway.

While not quite as web-tastic as some arboreals, C. marshalli produces a healthy amount of web within and around their burrow. Webbing is especially dense around the entrance—like a tripwire system or welcome mat, just in case dinner arrives unexpectedly. Slings start webbing as soon as they can dig, and adults keep modifying their masterpiece over time. Webbing is integral to their burrowing and helps you spot where they’re most active—watch out for new silk carpets or barricades whenever they’re feeling creative.

C. marshalli isn’t fussy when it comes to dinner—give them a suitably sized cricket, roach, or locust and stand back for a fast, decisive takedown. Slings appreciate pinhead crickets, micro roaches or pre-killed prey once a week. Juveniles can handle larger live prey every 7-10 days, and adults are happy with a decent meal every 10-14 days (skip the Sunday roast portions—they prefer smaller, regular feedings). Overfeeding is a rookie mistake: leave leftovers for more than a day and you risk inviting unwanted house guests (mites and friends). Always remove uneaten prey after 24 hours, especially before a molt. You’ll know it’s mealtime when your baboon does a guard-dog impression at the burrow entrance.

For C. marshalli, a deep, secure enclosure is key. Opt for at least 30x30x30 cm for subadults and adults, with a minimum of 20 cm of compacted substrate for burrowing (coir, topsoil, or a mix—avoid chemicals, of course!). Compact substrate well to prevent cave-ins, and offer a starter burrow against one side for spying opportunities. Ventilation should be strong but not breezy; cross-vent holes are ideal. A wide, shallow water dish is essential, and a bit of cork bark or a fake plant for decoration won’t go amiss. Avoid overcrowding with décor—this one wants real estate, not clutter. Keep access for spot-cleaning easy (trust me, you’ll thank yourself during rehousing). Lid should be escape-proof, as they’re stronger than you think!

Given their bossy attitude and impressive speed, C. marshalli is best reserved for keepers with a bit of mileage. Intermediate hobbyists with some experience of rehouses and defensive new worlds will appreciate their unique behaviours. Beginners confident with fossorial set-ups may manage, provided they do their homework, but this isn’t an ideal ‘first spider’—unless you’re in it for the thrill and drama (and like to admire from a safe distance).

Ceratogyrus marshalli ticks every box for drama, beauty, and intrigue. From their one-of-a-kind horn to the daredevil burrowing antics, they’re a top pick for anyone who enjoys a bit of attitude and an enclosure with personality. While not cuddly, they’re absolutely captivating—invisibility cloak and all. The challenges? Fast, defensive and not fans of change, so they’ll keep you on your toes at rehousing time. But if you’re after something truly unique, this species’ display value and individuality more than repay the patience. Set them up right, give them space, and enjoy years of horned majesty from a safe (and respectful!) distance.