Breeding Notes
Ceratogyrus marshalli
Straight-horned baboon tarantula
Also known as: great horned baboon tarantula, straight horned baboon
Species-specific breeding guidance, seasonal context and practical caveats for experienced keepers.
Species breeding reference
Breeding Notes
Ceratogyrus marshalli can be a rewarding but challenging breeding project for those with experience in African species. There’s a real need for patience and careful observation. Results aren’t guaranteed, and some females simply won’t produce even after successful pairings. Good prep, the right seasonal cues, and close attention go a long way, but be prepared for surprises (pleasant and otherwise).
Wild Breeding Season
There’s not much clear evidence pinpointing an exact breeding season for this species in the wild, but it likely coincides with the rainy season in its native parts of southern Africa. That’s usually when conditions are warmer and more humid, which tends to trigger pairing activity for many African theraphosids.
Wild Environmental Triggers
A jump in humidity and a noticeable rise in temperature after a dry spell seem to be the signal that the time’s right for action. Natural rainfall and a burst of prey in the environment are thought to encourage males to start wandering and females to become receptive.
Native Climate Context
Ceratogyrus marshalli is found in savanna and grassland regions of Zimbabwe and neighbouring countries, with a strong wet-dry seasonal split. Rainfall is typically concentrated between November and March, with hot days and cooler nights year-round. During the dry season, conditions can get pretty arid but burrowing helps these spiders dodge the worst of it.
Captive Breeding Window
Best bet is to introduce pairs after a simulated dry period followed by an increase in misting and a slight bump in enclosure warmth, aiming to mirror the build-up to the rainy season. Pairings started in early spring or after a few weeks of increased humidity and feeding seem to yield better results.
Pre-pairing Conditioning
Feed both male and female well in the weeks leading up to introduction so they’re in top condition. A very slightly drier spell beforehand may help, then gradually boost humidity and temperature to cue breeding behaviour. Avoid stressing the female with drastic enclosure changes, but a slow seasonal ramp-up can nudge her into the right mood.
Male Introduction Guidance
Males can be keen and aren’t known for drawn-out courtship, but care is needed as females can be unpredictable and defensive at the wrong moment. Introduce the male at one end of the enclosure and give both spiders an easy escape route. Be ready with tools to separate them if needed, but don’t hover too much and cause extra stress.
Female Readiness Signs
Females that are ready tend to web more frequently and hang round at the entrance to their burrow. You might notice her body looking plumper and appearing more tolerant of disturbances – but don’t count on that last bit!
Post-pairing Conditions
After pairing, keep the female well-fed and maintain stable, warm, humid conditions without flooding the burrow. Reducing disturbances is important – she’s less likely to eat the sac if left in peace. Keep humidity consistent but avoid soggy substrate.
Sac Timeline
Exact timing varies, but females usually produce an egg sac 4–8 weeks after a successful pairing, and the sac tends to be ready to pull at roughly 6–8 weeks post-laying. Marked variability, so keep a close watch and act on any signs of trouble.
Incubation Notes
Many breeders choose to incubate sacs artificially after 4–5 weeks, while some leave the sac with the mother. If pulling, keep it at a steady, warm temperature (mid-20s Celsius) and moderate humidity, but don’t overdo the moisture as embryos can be sensitive to excess damp.
Expected Sling Count
Hatch sizes are noted as 40–150 slings, with plenty of variation depending on female size and condition. Numbers can be lower for first-time breeders.
Risks and Cautions
Females are very defensive and not above munching the male if he lingers or gets it wrong. Cannibalism risk is high, especially if the female is under-conditioned or stressed. Male survival rates improve if you introduce only when the female is well-fed and receptive. Egg sacs can be eaten or abandoned if conditions fluctuate wildly or if the female feels unsafe. Sac production is not guaranteed and some mature females may never lay, even after pairing.
Evidence confidence: Medium
