Species Care Guide
Pterinochilus chordatus
Kilimanjaroberg baboon spider
Also known as: Kilimanjaro mustard baboon, East African baboon spider
Last updated: July 19, 2026
Origin
Pterinochilus chordatus, affectionately known as the Kilimanjaro Mustard Baboon, hails from East Africa, mainly Kenya and Tanzania. Their natural stomping grounds include the savannahs and bushland at various elevations—including the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, which is surely the poshest address a tarantula could hope for! Temperatures here are warm year-round, with distinct wet and dry seasons, and the substrate is largely dry, sandy or dusty soil interspersed with rocky burrows and occasional plants. Wild chordatus typically hole up in self-dug or opportunistic burrows, emerging at dusk to ambush unsuspecting insects. The environment is fairly arid, but there’s enough seasonal humidity to keep things interesting for an adventurous spider.
Adult Size
Once mature, P. chordatus can reach a commendable 12–14 cm diagonal leg span; not the largest in the hobby, but certainly not to be ignored! Females typically bulk up more noticeably and can appear stockier than males, who tend to be leggier and lighter. Growth is relatively steady and, provided with regular meals and appropriate temperatures, yours could reach adulthood in three to five years. As with many baboon spiders, females are truly the long-haulers, and their size and robustness make for impressive display specimens.
Lifestyle
In captivity, P. chordatus is a terrestrial species with distinctly fossorial tendencies—they just love to dig! Given half a chance, they’ll build extensive tunnel networks beneath the substrate like miniature civil engineers. When not working on their next big excavation, they’ll line the area with dense webbing which acts as a home security system (eat your heart out, Ring doorbell). Encountering these spiders out and about in their enclosures isn’t uncommon, especially at dusk or after a good feed, but be prepared for sudden retreats back to their lairs if startled.
Lifespan
Females are the marathon runners here, often living well over 12 years in captivity if all goes according to plan. With proper care, it isn’t unusual for a female P. chordatus to enjoy her golden years skulking about a burrow for a decade or more. Males, on the other hand, are somewhat short-lived—once they mature (usually in 3–5 years), they’ll only have another 1–2 years to boogie before shuffling off their mortal coil. Good incentive to cherish those reclusive gents while you can!
Growth Rate
P. chordatus boasts a medium growth rate—faster than the notorious slowpokes like Grammostola, but far from the Usain Bolts of the tarantula world. Slings and juveniles grow steadily with regular feeds and warm temps, and many keepers find them reach sub-adulthood in around 2–3 years. Growth tends to slow after a certain point, but with a decent feeding schedule and consistent warmth, their moulting can be quite reliable. Not a species you’ll wait a decade to reach full glory, thank goodness.
Temperament
Now, let’s not sugar-coat it: P. chordatus are legends for attitude. These spiders are best described as ‘defensively enthusiastic’—quick to threat pose, fast on their feet, and not shy about making their feelings known if you invade their personal space. They’re not lurking under leaves like secret agents; they’re more like security guards in hi-vis vests. Expect them to bolt or display if disturbed. This isn’t one for cuddly photo ops (handling is a no-no), but for keepers who enjoy watching spirited spider antics, they’re proper entertainment!
Temperature
P. chordatus comes from the balmy climates of East Africa, so they thrive at a cosy 22–26°C in the spider room. Think British summer, but without the rain every other day. They don’t demand tropical hothouse conditions; simply keep them above 20°C and you’re golden. Overnight dips to 18°C are fine (they’re not delicate flowers), but try not to let it drop lower for extended periods. If your house tends to be chilly, a heat mat attached to the side (never underneath) of the enclosure can keep things toasty—always use a thermostat to avoid amphibian stew. Let nature fluctuate a little, but avoid wild swings.
Humidity
Despite their intimidating nickname, Kilimanjaro Mustard Baboons prefer a relatively dry setup. Aim for 50–60% relative humidity; they’re used to places where rain is more newsworthy than sunshine. Allow much of the substrate to dry out between light waterings, but always provide a clean, shallow water dish—if they do drink, they appreciate the option. Excellent airflow is vital: stuffy, stagnant conditions just won’t do and can lead to mould or mites. Mist a corner occasionally during hot spells, but never soak the setup (unless you want a muddy, grumpy spider).
Visibility
Despite their fossorial nature, P. chordatus are more visible than many burrowers. Juveniles in particular are often spotted prowling or webbing up in the open, especially after a good moult or meal. Adults may retreat to their tunnels during daylight, but often pop out at dusk or when they sense prey (or perhaps just to check if the keeper remembered their manners). Their lively temperament and obvious webbing make them more of a spectacle than some shy spiders—perfect for the keeper who prefers activity over a box of dirt with occasional legs.
Webbing
For a burrower, P. chordatus really knows how to redecorate—they’ll line every tunnel and surface with thick, silken webbing, effectively turning their home into something between a haunted house and a fibre-optic masterpiece. Webbing is used as both tripwire and home security system; vibrations tell them about passing insects, nosy keepers, or that nosy housemate who claims 'they don’t even notice the spider.' Watching them lay down webbing or respond to prey hitting their silken network is a delight and marks them as one of the ‘showier’ baboon spiders.
Feeding
A P. chordatus never met a cricket it didn’t want to rugby-tackle. Slings will take on fruit flies or pre-killed micro-crickets, moving up to small crickets and mealworms as they grow. Juveniles and adults are eager feeders—offer one or two appropriately sized items (crickets, roaches, locusts, or the occasional mealworm) once every 7–10 days for adults, twice weekly for slings. Overfeeding can lead to awkwardly plump spiders, so keep an eye on their abdomens. Remove uneaten prey after 24 hours to avoid stress or risk during moulting. Their feeding response is fast and often dramatic—great fun to watch but do keep fingers clear. Feeding tongs are highly recommended; they’ll snatch food right out of mid-air if given the chance!
Enclosure Recommendations
Enclosure size isn’t rocket science: a 30x30x30 cm box for adults gives them plenty of room to tunnel and redecorate. Give them 15–20 cm of loose, diggable substrate such as coco fibre, topsoil or a sandy mix for those classic baboon burrows. Add cork bark or slate for structure and at least one snug hide (though expect them to ignore it and do their own thing). Ventilation is crucial—drill those holes all around the top and sides to ensure fresh air. Always include a shallow water dish. Don’t bother too much with plants; they’ll likely end up webbed to oblivion. Keepers often find the enclosure ‘evolves’ frequently, as the spider reworks its living arrangements.
Experience Level
Due to their defensiveness and speed, P. chordatus is best suited to intermediate keepers or brave beginners with strong nerves and decent tongs. If you’ve kept calmer species and are ready for a bit more excitement, this East African native offers a thrilling next step. Not recommended for those still prone to jumping at sudden movement—or for those hoping to handle their spiders. Respect and caution go a long way with these baboons.
Final Thoughts
P. chordatus isn’t for the faint-hearted, but for hobbyists hoping to experience the bold antics of an African baboon spider, nothing beats watching this species claim, remodel, and fiercely defend its territory. Their webbing skills, speed, attitude and striking looks are all top-shelf. Challenges mainly revolve around safe maintenance—no heroic barehanded tank cleans, please. They might not be a ‘pet rock,’ but they deliver action, DIY tunnel shows, and an occasional hairy threat-pose for your trouble. If you respect their boundaries, P. chordatus is a uniquely rewarding addition, guaranteed to keep things interesting in any collection.
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