Idiothele mira

Idiothele mira, often called the Blue-Footed Baboon, hails from the subtropical regions of southern Africa, most notably South Africa and surrounding areas. In the wild, this clever little architect is found inhabiting sandy grasslands and savannahs, where it constructs intricate silk-lined burrows, sometimes beneath rocks or dense vegetation to avoid the African sun. The climate here offers warm days, slightly cooler nights and seasonal rains, making for an environment that swings between hot and dry, with moderate humidity. If you fancy a spider that is both stunning and enigmatic, Idiothele mira brings a slice of African wilderness right into your home.

You can expect an adult Idiothele mira to reach a leg span of about 9–12 cm, making it a moderately sized tarantula—not a dinner plate, but not petite either. Females are generally bulkier and enjoy longer lifespans, whereas males tend to be leggier and just a bit more streamlined. Growth rates are reasonable; most slings will be recognisably juvenile within a year or two and will continue filling out with each moult. While it’s not going to outgrow your enclosure overnight, their compact size makes them splendid for keepers with a bit less space to spare.

Idiothele mira is archetypally fossorial, meaning it’s a burrowing species that loves to spend its time underground. In captivity, you’ll find that slings and juveniles waste no time digging elaborate tunnels, webbing extensively around their burrow entrances, and generally putting most DIY enthusiasts to shame. Don’t expect much arboreal acrobatics—this spider is all about subterranean living. It’s not the species to set up shop in the open, preferring instead to use its webbed fortress for ambush hunting and shy observation. Their fossorial nature means they’ll provide great joy to keepers who appreciate watching a hardworking, reclusive architect at work.

If you’re hoping for a lifelong pal, females can oblige, living anywhere from 10 to 15 years in captivity with proper care. Males, as is the tragic spider tradition, are rather less long-lived, typically maturing much sooner and often living only 2 to 4 years. Males, bless them, tend to pass on not long after maturing, leaving the females to rule their burrows unbothered for many years. In either case, providing a stable environment and proper husbandry will help your spider live its best (and possibly longest) life.

Idiothele mira grows at a medium pace, faster than some old-world counterparts but hardly in danger of being called a speed demon. Warmer temperatures and regular meals encourage growth, while cooler temperatures or infrequent feeding can slow things down. Slings move through early instars fairly steadily, and healthy juveniles will surprise you with just how quickly they put on size after a good moult. Just remember, patience pays off—a well-fed, consistently cared for mira will reward you with healthy growth and fabulous colours.

If ever a tarantula could be described as shyly polite, Idiothele mira fits the bill. This species is quick to retreat into its webbed burrow at the slightest disturbance, making hasty dashes rather than standing its ground. While they pack plenty of old-world attitude if truly provoked, defensive displays are rare unless really cornered. Most keepers find them a pleasure to work with, provided you respect their need for privacy. Be mindful of their speed—what they lack in size, they can make up in surprising agility when threatened.

Aim to keep your Idiothele mira at temperatures between 22–26°C. They’ll tolerate the occasional dip or spike—anything from 20°C to 28°C is fine for short stints—but avoid extremes. In most UK homes, room temperature is generally spot-on. If your tarantula room gets a bit chilly during the winter, a low-wattage heat mat attached to the side of the enclosure can be used, but never place it underneath; heat rises, and these spiders burrow to find cooler temperatures! Avoid overheating at all costs. A digital thermometer is your friend—overzealous heating is more dangerous than a mild cold snap.

Idiothele mira does best at 50–70% relative humidity. They’re used to some dryness with the occasional splash, not a soggy rainforest floor. Use a deep substrate that you moisten occasionally on one side, leaving the other mostly dry—this lets the spider choose what suits its mood. Good cross-ventilation is crucial; this species dislikes stuffy, stagnant air (and frankly, who can blame it?). A shallow water dish should always be available, not just for thirst but also to help keep local humidity stable. Avoid overwatering—the odd sprinkle is plenty.

Let’s be honest, you’re more likely to see an eclipse than a mira out for a stroll. That said, their tendency to web extensively around their burrow makes their presence obvious, even if you don’t see the spider itself every day. Activity peaks at night or just after feeding, when you might catch a glimpse of those electric blue toes poking out. If you enjoy spotting elusive beauty rather than bold display, this species will keep you charmed and curious in equal measure.

Idiothele mira is a silk-spinning superstar! They extensively line their burrows with dense, white webbing, often creating an impressive funnel at the entrance. The webbing isn’t just for decoration—it helps them sense prey, reinforce the burrow and snazz up their subterranean lair. Observing their web-building antics is a treat, especially when they remodel after a feed or moult. Expect to see the enclosure transformed into a silken labyrinth over time, especially in well-fed juveniles and adults.

Slings happily take pre-killed pinhead crickets, micro mealworms or fruit flies—twice a week is a good start. As they grow, bump up to small live crickets, roaches or locusts, offering food once a week, or slightly more often for fast growers. Adults can be fed every 7–10 days with appropriately sized insects. These spiders typically have an enthusiastic feeding response, darting out from their hide to grab a meal with gusto. Remove uneaten prey after 24 hours, as lingering crickets are a recipe for nibbled toes and unnecessary stress. Resist the urge to overfeed; a steady, sensible diet supports healthy moults and avoids obesity, which is a surprisingly common tarantula 'problem'.

Choose a secure, escape-proof enclosure with good lateral ventilation. Depth is more important than floor space—a tub or tank at least 30 cm tall allows for a decent layer of fine, slightly moist substrate (such as coco fibre, topsoil or a soil-sand mix) 15–20 cm deep for slings and juveniles, and up to 25 cm or more for adults. Add a starter burrow or cork bark slab to help them settle in. A water dish is a must. Keep the decor minimal to avoid interfering with their webbing and excavation efforts—mira like their home uncluttered, thank you very much. Avoid light, airy arboreal set-ups or anything shallow—they want to dig, and will sulk (or escape) if thwarted.

Idiothele mira is best for intermediate keepers—someone familiar with tarantula care but ready to upgrade to an old-world fossorial. Their care requirements are manageable, but their speed and occasional defensiveness can surprise the unwary. Beginners might find their reclusive nature and enclosure maintenance a bit challenging, but anyone comfortable with basic tarantula husbandry and not hoping for a pet hole-in-the-wall will find the experience fun and rewarding. An excellent species to hone your fossorial skills!

Idiothele mira is a true gem in any collection—a fossorial marvel with striking blue toes, a penchant for serious webbing and fascinating burrow-building behaviour. While not the best choice if you’d like a spider that greets you at the glass every morning, those who appreciate subtlety, machinery-grade excavation skills and the thrill of spotting a rare glimpse of shimmering blue will be smitten. They’re perfect for keepers with a bit of experience and patience. If you can provide a suitable home and accept their secretive ways, they’ll reward you with captivating behaviour and some of the neatest underground engineering in the hobby.